October 1, 2008
It’s a cute little town on the Normandy coast, but there are really only two reasons for visiting Bayeux - its proximity to the D-Day beaches and the Bayeux Tapestry.
Bayeux 15-10-2005 17h11 by Panoramas
The WWII sites are fodder for a much bigger and encompassing post, so i wanted to focus this one on that other war: the 1066 Battle of Hastings, picked out in vibrant threads on a millenium old cloth.
The tapestry is on display in the Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux which is in an old seminary in the town centre. Entry for adults is 7.70€ and includes an audio guide.
A full 70 metres long, the tapestry tells the story of Harold II and William the Conqueror. The earliest record of it is 1476, although it is commonly believed to have been commissioned by William’s brother which would put it at almost one thousand years old. It was a visual record of the Norman conquest and could be rolled out for the illiterate public of the time to see.
P3240031 by Webjan
In the museum it is hanging vertically in a dim room. The audio guide will take you along it, telling the story the embroidery depicts, but at a rapid pace, completing the entire length in twenty minutes. It pays to go back along it again, taking your time and really looking at the details. Halley’s comet, exposed genitalia, decapitated Saxons. The colours of the thousand year old thread are brighter than most in my wardrobe after six months and the detail, especially of the final battle, is impressive. Pictures really do not do it justice.
Now I’m aware most people would respond with “embroideryschmoidery boooring” and, even as someone who embroiders, I felt that way before seeing it. But it is more imposing than the usual museum wall hanging, with a solemn majesty that I last felt when I saw the Book of Kells. You may not want to base an entire trip on just visitng this but if you’re visiting the Normandy coast it is well worth an hour or so of your time.
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September 29, 2008
Stockholm City Bikes is a scheme similar to those already existing in other European cities. And even though there is only one more month left in the bike rental season in 2008 (ends October 31), it’s a handy tip for next year when the bike stands open again in April.
image from Stockholm City Bikes
How does it work?
In order to rent a bike, you need to purchase a bike card, and in order to purchase a bike card, you need to be over 18 years of age and present a valid ID. You can buy the card on the Stockholm City Bikes website, or at the Stockholm Tourist Information Office (Hamngatan 27) or at the SL (Stockholm City public transportation authority) Centers at the following locations: Fridhemsplan, Gullmarsplan, Tekniska Högskolan, Sergels Torg, Slussen, Täby C and T-Centralen.
There are two choices for the cards: a 3-day card and a season’s pass. The 3-day card costs 125 SEK.
With the card in hand you can go any of the 60 self-service bike stands and pick up a bike. There are a couple of things you need to remember.
1. You can only rent a bike between 6AM and 6PM. The website cheerfully announces that you can return the bike anytime. But that is not exactly true, because:
2. The maximum time you can rent a bike for is 3 hours. And that means the last return time should be around 9PM. After that, you’re out of luck.
3. During the day, if you’re 3 hours are up, you can return the bike and immediately hire another.
Even with those limitations, the program seems very popular with tourists. The bikes on offer are sturdy types suitable for even an inexperienced bike rider.
Riding a bike in Stockholm is an easy and safe, not to mention eco-friendly, option. Most streets have designated bike lanes and regular drivers, by and large, seem to follow the rules of the road.
Minuses: When we tried to use the scheme earlier this summer, several of the bikes at each stand we visited were damaged and it took quite some time to find one that was useable.
When you rent a bike and ride around, parking it temporarily can be a problem, if you don’t carry your own bike lock. Your only option will be to return the bike to another rental station and then pick up a new one.
Limited rental hours are a huge minus, at least to me, and especially in the summer, when it’s still bright outside after 9PM and you want to continue exploring the city.
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September 28, 2008
There are only a few days left to enter your favourite photo of Edinburgh in the “Love Your City” contest being run by the Cockburn Association, Edinburgh’s Civic Society, as the closing date for entries is 1 October 2008. You can enter any photo which portrays Edinburgh or the view from Edinburgh. Email your entry to “dod at cockburnassociation.org.uk” with your name, address phone number and a description (50 words max) of where the photo was taken, the subject of the photo and why you chose that subject.
It’s hard for me to decide which of my photos of Edinburgh to enter as you can only enter one photo. You can see five of my favourites below.
The Giraffes outside the Omni Centre
Portobello Beach
Leith
The Scottish Parliament and Arthur's Seat from New Calton Cemetery
View from Newhaven Harbour towards Fife
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September 27, 2008
Balvaird Castle is in Perthshire around 10 miles south of the city of Perth. The castle started off in the late 15th century as an L shaped tower house, home to the Murray family but was given a makeover in the 16th century with the addition of courtyard buildings, a garden and flushing latrines. The tower house and residence are still fairly intact.
Balvaird Castle
It’s only possible to gain access to the interior of the castle by prior arrangement, although you can visit the exterior all year round. I planned my visit during the Doors Open Day on Sunday 21 September 2008. The Castle interior used to be open to the public during Summer weekends but didn’t receive enough visitors to justify the required staffing.
View towards Lomond Hills from Balvaird Castle Tower
The views from the top of the tower toward the Lomond hills were lovely. It should have been peaceful but there were several motor cyclists racing around the country roads.
The castle lies just off the A913 between Gateshead and Bridge of Earn. It’s a half mile walk on a gradual slope up a pathway from the car park. I stayed at the nearby Glenfarg Hotel when I visited the area.
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September 27, 2008
British Flags in London - Copyright by Andrew Hayes
I just spent a week down in London with my mum. It was per her request as she’s never spent time there, and I was not actually looking forward to it as I never found London to be one of my favourite places. However, I am happy to report we had a good time and I was thoroughly impressed with some of the places we went, no matter how touristy. London is a sprawling and expensive place though, even for those of us earning in pounds sterling. I did find a couple of tips that helped us survive and have a few spare notes left for souvenirs at the end of the day:
- Get an Oyster card. Without a doubt, the Underground is an essential travel tool. Zone 1 one way tickets cost £4. With an Oyster card (which costs £3), each Zone 1 one way ticket is £1.50. You need to use it twice and you’ve recouped your investment. Makes sense to me. Just look for the blue box in any tube station or ask the attendant for assistance. You will need to pre-fill the card before using it but can put as little or as much as you want – although do not put too much in case it is lost or stolen. Keep fit and shorten your travel times with this previous tube tip.
- The pub is still king. Pubs often serve up some of the best traditional food at very reasonable prices. And what better place to get a touch of old world charm, free of charge? One of the pubs I found was lovely was The Swan (66 Bayswater Road) – they have a delicious carvery for only £8.95.
- Don’t forget the markets too. Borough Market is one of my favourites for delicious grilled cheese and chips, and it is very cheap!
- The grass is green in London. Yes, that’s because it rains a lot, but it does not rain as much as you might think. If you happen to find yourself blessed with some decent weather, why not spend some time in some of London’s popular parks. I personally love the expansive Hyde Park, where you can stroll about the gardens around Kensington Palace or reflect at the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain.
We have had plenty of other tips here at Europe A La Carte in the past, including free walking tours, the free Thames River Path (one of my favourites without a doubt!), and hiring bikes.
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September 26, 2008
British Flags in London - Copyright by Andrew Hayes
I just spent a week down in London with my mum. It was per her request as she’s never spent time there, and I was not actually looking forward to it as I never found London to be one of my favourite places. However, I am happy to report we had a good time and I was thoroughly impressed with some of the places we went, no matter how touristy. London is a sprawling and expensive place though, even for those of us earning in pounds sterling. I did find a couple of tips that helped us survive and have a few spare notes left for souvenirs at the end of the day:
- Get an Oyster card. Without a doubt, the Underground is an essential travel tool. Zone 1 one way tickets cost £4. With an Oyster card (which costs £3), each Zone 1 one way ticket is £1.50. You need to use it twice and you’ve recouped your investment. Makes sense to me. Just look for the blue box in any tube station or ask the attendant for assistance. You will need to pre-fill the card before using it but can put as little or as much as you want – although do not put too much in case it is lost or stolen. Keep fit and shorten your travel times with this previous tube tip.
- The pub is still king. Pubs often serve up some of the best traditional food at very reasonable prices. And what better place to get a touch of old world charm, free of charge? One of the pubs I found was lovely was The Swan (66 Bayswater Road) – they have a delicious carvery for only £8.95.
- Don’t forget the markets too. Borough Market is one of my favourites for delicious grilled cheese and chips, and it is very cheap!
- The grass is green in London. Yes, that’s because it rains a lot, but it does not rain as much as you might think. If you happen to find yourself blessed with some decent weather, why not spend some time in some of London’s popular parks. I personally love the expansive Hyde Park, where you can stroll about the gardens around Kensington Palace or reflect at the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain.
We have had plenty of other tips here at Europe A La Carte in the past, including free walking tours, the free Thames River Path (one of my favourites without a doubt!), and hiring bikes.
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September 26, 2008
If you’re planning on visiting Madrid then check out the Madrid Card for tourists before you go, it’ll save you some euros and make sure you see the most for your money.
Standing around the Prado
The card will allow you
- free entry to more than 40 of the major musuems
- as many trips as you want on the Madrid Vision tour bus
- all visits which are part of the Discover Madrid Programme Madrid Fun Fair, Madrid Zoo and Aquarium, Cable Railway, Faunia, Imax and more…
- entry to the Santiago Bernabéu stadium, thanks to the new Bernabéu Tour
You’ll also get big discounts in shops restaurants, shows and leisure centres for adults and children.
When you buy a Madrid Card you’ll get a guide with all the information on the associated establishments along with a useful city map.
Check out the Tourist Travel Pass too for unlimited underground and bus use.
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September 26, 2008
Hvar is a beautiful Croatian island located off the coastal city of Split. There is centuries of history on the island, as the city of Havr is the oldest inhabited city being founded by the ancient Greeks, and is one of the main tourist attractions on the Dalmatian Riviera. The island has many attractions, fantastic food, and many accommodation options. There are gorgeous beaches, a great climate, and no shortages of things to do and see. There are 5 ferries per day from Split to Hvar (2hours travel) and 1 ferry per day from Pescara to Hvar (4hours). Hvar sees the most sun in all of Croatia and they say when it snows on the island accommodations are free. (It never snows!!)
City of Hvar
One of the main attractions on the island is the Napolijun building, named after the French emperor, which is erected on top of the medieval church of St Nicholas. This building has been a lookout point until the war in Yugoslavia in the early 90’s and now it houses the astronomical observatory of the geodesic faculty of Zagreb University. The Pjaca has, maybe, the biggest and most picturesque town square in Croatia. It has a Renaissance arch and nearby is a small port and several vineyards. The Fabrika is a beautiful stone quay along the sea edge of the town square, which was built in the middle of the 16th century. The cathedral of Pope St Stephen is located at the far end of the Pjaca, where 2 parts of the town meet. It was built on the site of a 6th century Christian church and the current cathedral is the remains of a Gothic church from the 14th century. In the town of Havr there is a neo-classical Bishop’s Court, which dates from the 18th and 19th centuries. Here you can see classical columns and Baroque stucco decorations. The once famous Dominican monastery of St Mark was constructed as a small castle-fort, which enabled defense against invaders, above Donji Trg and located opposite The Rector’s Palače.
There are many accommodation options such as private apartments, hotels, and even camping. For the budget traveler private accommodations are the way to go. Camping can be nice as well, but only in the summer and spring months when the weather is warm.
There are many great restaurants in Hvar from places that have general tourist menus to ones that feature local specialties, such as Hvar cakes, especially the pepper cakes from Stari Grad.
Wine from Hvar and other Dalmatian areas were exported to France and then to Hungary from 1870 until around 1894, when phylloxera devastated most of the Dalmatian vineyards. Then, in the first decades of the 20th century large numbers of islanders emigrated to North and South America. People from Hvar became the pioneers of wine growing in California and still participate a great deal in the production of wine in Napa Valley. There are still some smaller wineries on the island and many of the smaller restaurants carry wine from them.
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September 26, 2008
The ease of train travel in Spain is constantly improving, the latest service launched between Barcelona and Madrid and AVE service between Madrid and Malaga has been really popular.
Roman amphitheatre and railway station, Tarragona
The AVE (Alta Velocidad Española) reached a top speed of 350 kph or 220 mph on these longer trips which would take around five hours by car. With trains being laid on especially for certain events more and more people, even locals are looking at them as a serious alternative to lengthy drives or flying.
Spanish business people have always used air links between the major cities, as a decent train service was none existent, and the huge distances needed to be covered were an impossibility by car within a working day. The plans for a better rail communication system all across Spain are exciting and of course a far more environmentally friendly option than a single-occupant car trip or flying.
One day we might see a high-speed train link from London, France and down to the south of Spain, but for now it’s getting better all the time.
You can book online for slightly cheaper fares.
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September 26, 2008
I’d like to introduce you to the most recent member of the Europe a la Carte blogging team, Rachel Webb.
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Online since 1994.
